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Had a situation last week where I was getting soft, tacky foam mid-job. Eventually tracked it down to an ISO drum that was running low and had moisture contamination at the bottom.

Wanted to start a thread about field diagnostics for off-ratio foam since I see this come up a lot:

Signs your foam is off-ratio:
– Tacky/sticky surface = too much ISO or resin side issue
– Brittle, crumbly foam = too much resin (A-side rich)
– Off color (darker or lighter than normal) = ratio issue
– Unusual smell = contamination or ratio
– No cream time or immediate skinning = usually heat issue

Quick field tests:
1. Paper test strip – apply small bead, check tack at 30 seconds
2. Knife test – cut sample, check cell structure (should be uniform fine cells)
3. Measure mix ratio by weight per second from each side

Anyone have other field diagnostic tips they rely on?

Doing a crawl space encapsulation job. Customer wants spray foam on the rim joists plus I am doing a full floor system with poly vapor barrier.

Question: If I am spraying 2 inch closed cell on the rim joists, do I still need to extend the poly barrier up the foundation wall to the joists, or does the foam take the place of the vapor control at that location?

Climate zone 5 here (Indiana). IRC 2021 applies.

My understanding: closed cell foam at 2 inch IS a Class II vapor retarder, so the poly is not technically needed at the rim joist location. But I want to make sure there is no air leakage path between the poly on the floor and where the foam starts on the rim.

Also: should I foam the sill plate area before the rim joist, or foam both together?

Seeing more and more about HFO-based closed cell foams (Lapolla 4G HFO, BASF Walltite ECO, etc.). My distributor is pushing them hard as the future of closed cell.

Currently running standard HFC-245fa closed cell and it works great. The HFO upgrade would be about 15-20% higher material cost per board foot.

Arguments for HFO:
– Lower Global Warming Potential (GWP) – 1 vs 700+ for HFC
– Required by some green building specs (LEED, etc.)
– Some states may phase out HFC products

Arguments against:
– Higher cost passed to customers = harder to win bids
– Some early reports of slightly lower yield
– Limited long-term performance data

Anyone making this switch? Is the green premium actually translating to more business or just more cost?

I have been in the spray foam business for 7 years now, started solo and now run a crew of 4. Wanted to share what I wish someone had told me when I started.

Equipment: Do not cheap out on the machine. Buy a Graco or Gusmer. Factor in 3-5k per year for maintenance and repairs no matter what.

Chemical: Build a relationship with ONE distributor. The pricing deals are worth it. Store drums properly – temperature swings ruin material.

Business: Get spray foam specific liability insurance from Day 1. Regular contractor insurance often does not cover SPF claims. Require a signed contract on every job.

The hardest lesson: Price for profitability, not to win bids. I lost money for 18 months trying to compete on price with cheap operators. Once I raised prices 25 percent, I got better customers and actually made money.

Happy to answer questions for anyone starting out.

Having a nightmare job here. Installed 2 inch closed cell on the interior of OSB wall sheathing about 3 weeks ago. Customer called saying the foam is peeling away from the OSB in some spots.

Details:
– Product: Lapolla 4G HFO
– Temps during install: 55F substrate, 60F ambient
– Substrate was dry (moisture meter under 12%)
– No primer used
– Yield looked normal, cells looked good

The OSB was treated/pressure treated – could that be the issue? Lapolla tech line thinks it might be the preservative treatment reacting with the foam. Anyone dealt with delamination on treated OSB before?

Making a purchasing decision between the H-25 and H-40 for my company. We do about 60% residential and 40% light commercial (metal buildings, warehouses, small office buildouts).

My breakdown:
– H-25: lower operating cost, 2.5 lb/min output
– H-40: 4 lb/min output, better for commercial, but $8k more upfront

The rep is telling me the H-40 will pay for itself in commercial jobs. I am skeptical. Anyone running both or switched from one to the other?

Also interested in comparing heat-up times and reliability records. We are in Minnesota so cold start times matter a lot.

I’m getting calls from a customer who had open cell spray foam installed in their attic about 6 months ago. They’re claiming they can still smell a chemical odor.

The job was done with Icynene Classic (water-blown open cell), standard application. Temps were around 65F during install.

Questions:
1. Is 6-month off-gassing normal for open cell?
2. Could this be a moisture problem rather than off-gassing?
3. Has anyone had liability issues from post-install smell complaints?

The customer is threatening a BBB complaint. Not sure if I should offer remediation or stand firm.

Hey guys – I’ve been doing this solo for about 3 years now and I’m finally ready to upgrade my rig. Right now I’m running an older Graco E-30i out of a 20-ft enclosed trailer.

Looking at possibly moving to a skid unit in a van or pickup bed. Anyone running a solo operation with a truck-mounted setup?

Main concerns:
– Hose management working alone
– Generator size (currently running a 15kW)
– Drum placement and heating
– Staying under 26k GVW for CDL purposes

Any advice from guys who’ve made the solo rig transition would be huge. I work mostly residential with some small commercial jobs in the DFW area.

Great question! Having worked in cold climates (Minnesota and Wisconsin) for 12 years, here are my top tips:

1. Substrate Temperature: Never spray on surfaces below 40F. Use a temp gun to verify surface temp, not just air temp.

2. Drum Temperature: Keep A and B components at 70-80F. Electric drum heaters and a well-insulated trailer are essential.

3. Cold Weather Formulas: Ask your distributor about winter-grade products with adjusted reactivity.

4. Dew Point Check: Ensure substrate temp is at least 5 degrees above dew point to prevent adhesion failure.

5. Thinner Lifts: In very cold conditions, apply in passes no thicker than 1 inch to prevent thermal runaway.

Hope this helps!

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